How to repair a toilet with your own hands: analysis of common breakdowns. How to fix a toilet cistern: eliminating the most frequent breakdowns Do-it-yourself keramin toilet repair

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A toilet is a plumbing fixture that is installed in toilets and bathrooms. The device is made of sanitary ceramics and is equipped with a semi-automatic or automatic drain system. Toilet bowls are an integral part of the normal functioning of residential and office premises.

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Installation of toilet bowls

• floor and suspended;
• with vertical, horizontal or inclined drain;
• with rear, side or bottom water supply to the drain tank.

The installation of the toilet is carried out in several stages:

Installing a wall-hung toilet

Installing toilets (wall-hung) is more difficult than installing a floor-standing toilet. Some models provide for the installation of a hidden cistern in the wall above the toilet, for which you will need to make an appropriate hole in the wall.

It is also possible to organize a drainage system without a tank - directly with tap water.

Connecting the toilet to the sewer

Connection can be carried out through the use of:

• corrugated pipes;
• eccentric cuff;
• fan pipes.

In each case, the connection option is determined individually - depending on the features of the plumbing equipment and the customers' requirements for the appearance of the bathroom or toilet room.

The toilet bowl in every home is an element of everyday life, without which it is simply impossible to do. It is used much more often than all other plumbing fixtures. That is why it fails more often than other devices. And its most vulnerable component is the tank, which consists of several internal components. Their mechanical damage, as well as careless handling of the tank are the reasons for this device to lose its performance. In this article, we will look at how to repair a toilet cistern with a button on your own, without calling a team of plumbers.

All cisterns have a similar design. The only difference is in the mechanism for starting the water.

Structurally, a toilet cistern with a button or two buttons, as well as a drain lever, can be represented as a set of interacting units:

• Filling valve... He is responsible for maintaining the water level at a certain level. The valve is controlled by a hollow float. When the water rises to the desired level, the float closes the water supply channel to the tank;
• Plastic float fixed to the filling valve. Works on the principle of a rocker, rising when filling the tank;
• Drain valve having an overflow system. Modern variants of the tanks involve the control of this valve by pressing a button. When manually controlling the drain of the old model, it is enough to pull the lever or chain to start the water into the toilet;
• Overflow is an obligatory component of the tank. It is height adjustable so that the water level is set to a limit. When this level is exceeded, water flows through the overflow pipe into the sewer without pouring out through its walls.

The main structural elements and the principle of operation of the mechanism are the same for all types of cisterns, only their implementation differs

A mechanically drained cistern is very simple to operate. Water enters it through the filling valve when the float is in the lowered position. After reaching a strictly defined level, the float shuts off the water supply. The drain is controlled manually. If the tank is equipped with buttons, then the water is drained after pressing them. In this case, the drain valve opens partially or completely, allowing water to flow into the toilet. The float is lowered to open the filling valve.

The structure of the toilet cistern with two buttons is a little more complicated, but you can use such a cistern more economically. If you press one of the buttons, the water is partially drained. Full drainage occurs when the second button is pressed.

Increasingly, you can find new types of tanks that have bottom water connection... It is advisable to install them if the use of the side connection is impossible due to lack of space. The main difference between such a tank is the presence of a diaphragm valve... Under the action of the pressure of water in the pipeline, the valve opens slightly and allows water to pass inside. When the water rises, the float presses on the piston rod, which gradually closes the diaphragm valve. When the set level is reached, the valve closes completely.

Fittings with bottom water supply and push-button control

Common malfunctions

Drainage malfunctions may well lead to the loss of the toilet bowl of its performance. For many, such a sudden breakdown can be a real natural disaster. In addition, no one will like the increased water consumption.

Read about what it is and what types it is in a separate article.

And how to choose and in what situations it is necessary, we told in another article on the site.

What kind of breakdowns are typical for cisterns? Let's list them in order of frequency of occurrence:

1. Water leaking from the toilet to the floor... Most often, water flows through an O-ring located between the bottom of the cistern and the toilet shelf. If the ring is cracked or warped, water will seep through it. Also, the place of leakage may be the gaskets of the fastening bolts with which the tank is attached to the shelf. They will have to be replaced if tightening the bolts fails. It doesn't matter if the old-style toilet cistern is being repaired or a modern system is being repaired. After all, they all have the same fasteners.

Tip: When replacing gaskets and seals, it is recommended to lubricate them with liquid silicone to extend their life and prevent cracking.

2. There is a constant flow of water in the toilet... Most often this is due to an overflow of the tank, in which water flows out through the overflow tube. This can happen due to a change in the overflow height, a loose fit of the float to the shut-off valve, and the loss of its tightness by the float. The rubber seal on the drain fitting may also be worn out. Most often, the malfunction can be eliminated by adjustment. When the locking gasket is worn out, it is advisable to replace the entire drain mechanism.

3. Starting mechanism malfunctions... If you are using a push-button water supply mechanism, when you press the button, water may not flow into the drain. You will be able to repair the drain tank fittings with your own hands, since, most often, the lever mechanism that connects the button with the drain breaks. This also applies to tanks with a handle or chain.

4. Noisy filling of the tank... This happens due to the disconnection of the tube through which water is poured into the tank. This is typical for cisterns where water is supplied from the side. When the tube has fallen off, the noise of the incoming water will be clearly audible. To fix the problem, remove the top cover and install the tube on the fitting.

5. Water does not enter the tank... Repairing a toilet cistern with a button or other flush mechanisms when such a problem occurs is reduced to checking the inlet to the cistern. It is necessary to remove the valve from the tank and clean the inlet with a thin steel wire and rinse it with water.

One-button tank repair

Many people who are accustomed to old-style cisterns do not know how to fix a toilet cistern with a button. In fact, the differences between these systems are very minor. For many, the main problem is disassembling such a tank. Indeed, the button located on the tank lid requires careful handling during disassembly. But the device is very simple to understand.

The procedure will be as follows:

• turn off the water;
• empty the tank;
• carefully unscrew the plastic nut near the button;
• remove the cover.

Further actions depend on the nature of the breakdown. Breakdowns of the tank with a button may be as follows:

1. Little water is collected in the tank. Check the position of the float and adjust it.
2. The water start button is lit. This can happen due to clogging of the button shaft. It is necessary to clean it, and set the button to its previous position.
3. Water does not go down the toilet at the push of a button. Most likely, there was a break in the mechanism between the button and the drain valve. You can restore it yourself. If this element of the armature breaks down, then to replace it, you can use a copper wire or replace the valve completely.
4. Water flows through the overflow neck. It is necessary to adjust the overflow height or float. Overflow regulation is very simple. To do this, unscrew the union nut and set the required overflow level.
5. Water flows into the toilet from under the valve. The drain valve gasket may be worn out. It is best to replace the entire valve. To do this, unscrew the plastic nut at the bottom of the tank and remove the valve from its place. Install a new valve.

Note: It happens that the valve is not firmly in place due to misalignment. Reopening and closing it helps eliminate the leakage problem.

Repair of a two-button tank

Economical water consumption adds popularity to such a plumbing fixture. How to repair a toilet cistern with two buttons? The principle of disassembling such a tank remains the same as in the one-button version.

Typical breakdowns of a two-button tank:

Repair of a tank with a bottom water connection

The tank with bottom water connection uses a diaphragm-type filling valve. This can cause problem with filling the tank with low pressure in the water supply system... The water pressure may not be sufficient to depress the valve and fill the tank. If your system constantly maintains a low pressure, then it is better to replace the diaphragm valve with a rod analogue.

Another common problem is water leakage at the inlet to the supply valve reservoir. Its location is such that the valve is constantly under water. In case of insufficient tightness of the joints, the presence of leaks is practically guaranteed.

Repair of the toilet cistern with a bottom water supply is carried out after shutting off the water supply and removing the cistern cover. After that, the problem is eliminated according to the same algorithms that are described for repairing models with buttons.

We have figured out how to repair a flush cistern with a button, with two buttons, or with a mechanical control. They differ slightly, mainly in the design of the control mechanism. The general principle of operation and repair is the same for all considered devices.

The video shows the do-it-yourself repair of the toilet cistern, or rather, the process of replacing its fittings.

When you are faced with such a problem as the malfunction of your toilet's cistern, you have two choices: call the master or solve this issue yourself. The second option is suitable for those who do not want to spend money for work that they themselves can do, even if they do not know anything at all. In most cases, repairing the toilet cistern can be done in just two steps: inspect and replace. This article will help you deal with this embarrassment on your own.

When you have a cistern installed on your toilet, cleaning and draining the water is much easier, but from the inside it is quite difficult. The cistern consists of:

• Flush trigger, through which the flush action begins to take place.
• Float. This mechanism will allow you to control how much clean water enters the cistern. In the most modern toilets, the float is vertical to make water flow faster and easier.
• Water supply valve. Typically, the valve is located on the side of the cistern.
• The mechanism itself for the descent of clean water. This is the same button, by pressing which, the drain occurs. Usually, the button has two components: if you press it slowly, the water will start flowing into the toilet in a small amount, and if it is strong, then there will be a more intense and strong drain.
• Drain or drain valve. It also has an overflow for safety reasons. It will also help protect your toilet if water overflows in the cistern.

Nowadays, most of the components of the cistern itself are made of plastic and rubber, because these are the materials that are least sensitive to water, which is the most essential component of the cistern. All components are sold in the public domain in any store that has materials for the bathroom.

Flush cistern action

First of all, the most important thing in the drain is the presence of water. Cold water flows from the water supply through the filling mechanism, which should fill the entire cistern to a safe level. When enough water has leaked, the valve responsible for the water supply is turned off.

The flush button is a lever that makes it clear to the flush tank that it's time for it. After you have pressed the lever, the drain begins to operate. Also, the measured amount of running water begins to slowly penetrate into the toilet bowl, flushing everything in its path. After that, some water flows down the drain. That is, in other words, the principle of operation is the eternal collection and drainage of water.

Types of cistern

Before you start repairing your old cistern, you need to figure out what type it belongs to. Nowadays, there are many types of flush barrels, which differ in certain parameters. There are three types of flush cisterns, which are based on the type of lever:

• Side. In this case, the lever on the side must be pulled.
• Upper. The most common option. In this version, the button is located on top of the toilet, usually in the center.
• This species has no main name, since it is rarely used. In this case, the button is separate from the toilet itself, for example, on the wall. Usually this technique is used in order to increase the attractiveness of the bathroom.

According to the materials, there are three types:

• Cast iron cistern. Recently, this option is losing its uniqueness, since cast-iron toilets are much heavier than the usual ones we are used to.
• Earthenware cisterns. This option, on the other hand, is the most popular. Because these toilets are very diverse, colorful and fit into any interior.
• Plastic flush cisterns. This option is the most budgetary.

There are also three types of installation methods:

• When the flush toilet is installed on the shelf of the toilet itself. This is a very common type.
• The most difficult is when the cistern is installed in the wall. For this, a special hole is made in the wall, into which the drain tank will then be placed. This option is suitable for those who have limited space in the bathroom.
• The least common flush barrels are those that are installed above the toilet bowls themselves. That is, the cistern is attached to the wall, adding a pipe to it, with which it will communicate with the toilet.

The first step is to figure out the cause of the problems with the cistern.

To do this, you need to inspect the entire mechanism. A very common cause of water leakage problems is that the float is not working properly.

The float may not work even due to the fact that it is not straight, but slightly tilted. If correcting the float does not improve the situation, and the water leak continues, then the float itself must be replaced with a new one. It is also important to check how tightly the rubber seals are pressed against the drain system itself. If the special weight that you can add to the seals to increase their weight does not help, then the seals must also be replaced.

In the event that the float is not intact, then the water will not drain into the toilet, but will fill the tank above the normal level. With this option, it is necessary to inspect the very fittings of the cistern.

To inspect it, you have to pull it out of the cistern. If the damage is multiple, then all the fittings will have to be replaced, and if only some areas are damaged, then it is likely that you will not have to spend a lot and it will be possible to replace only one or a couple of parts. In order not to make a mistake when buying, take the fittings with you.

There are a couple of types of fittings that differ in the type of piping to the drain tank itself.

How to replace fittings if the piping is located at the bottom.

• The first step is always to limit the flow of water. To do this, you need to turn off the valve responsible for its supply.
• Lift the lid of the drain tank by removing the button in advance.
• Detach the eyeliner. When removing the drain part, rely on the fact that the upper parts are removed first, and only then the lower parts.
• Remove the drain tank fasteners.
• Secure the toilet cistern itself. Unfasten all fasteners securing the reinforcement.
• Replace fittings.
• Follow all the steps backwards to reassemble the cistern.

The process of replacing your fittings is very quick and easy.

How to repair an exhaust valve

Unlike the previous repairs, we need a little more tools. But, I think, these accessories should be in the house of every man.

Here's what we need:

• pliers.
• Adjustable wrench.
• Screwdrivers: flat and Phillips.
• Rubber pads.
• Silicone based sealant.

As we already know, the water supply itself is regulated by means of an outlet valve, which simply reacts to the lever movements. Therefore, it is the exhaust valve that is a common cause of breakdown. This mechanism is usually located at the bottom or in the side of the toilet.

If a malfunction has arisen precisely because of him, then the water in the drain tank will begin to overflow, therefore, it is necessary to repair this product:

• Raise the float all the way to the stop. If this helped, and the water stopped flowing, then it is necessary and simply to change the height of the float.
• Clean the outlet valve. To do this, you first need to shut off the water supply. Take a small brush that can get into the tightest spots and start scrubbing any dirt and deposits from the valve. After all, check the serviceability of the mechanism.

In most cases, these steps will help fix the bleed valve. But, if the performance has not improved, it is necessary to replace the valve. But for this you need to choose in the store either a suitable valve specifically for your toilet bowl, or a universal valve that fits all types.

How to repair fittings

If the problem is that your toilet is leaking, you need to give your attention to how tightly the cistern is sealed on the toilet itself, and whether there is any damage to the rubber seal.

It is necessary to fix the cistern on the toilet more tightly, tighten all the bolts harder, but do not overdo it here, because when the bolts are very tightly tightened, the risk that the cistern or the toilet itself will suffer is very high. If this method did not help, the problem lies in the seals, which should be replaced.

If your toilet has a cistern with a lower supply of water, it is much more difficult, but possible, to carry out a high-quality repair. But even in this case, it is necessary to simply replace the seal and fix it with a sealant with a silicone base.

Valve problems are also the cause of toilet leakage. The float limits the flow of water to a certain level, and when draining occurs, it is lowered so that the water is drained into the toilet. If a rusty strip appears inside the toilet bowl itself, then the cause of the breakdown lies precisely in the float.

If water is constantly leaking into the drain tank, then the gasket is out of date. In order to get rid of this, you just need to replace it.

If you notice rust on the seat of the toilet, replace the entire valve. But, that option is possible, in order to get rid of this problem, you just need to replace the gasket with a stronger one.

If there is a malfunction of the float, namely if it does not rise up, then the following steps must be performed:

• Try flipping the float itself.
• Replace the float with a new, more durable material.

If the button has stopped working or is malfunctioning, then you need a regular carnation. But, if this option did not help, you need to replace the lever.

If the thrust valve is damaged, it can be replaced with a regular cap from any plastic bottle.

The most popular problems with the action of the flush cistern are when the toilet bowl makes a lot of noise when flushing, and when the flush button does not work.

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

Plumbing equipment is subject to intense operational stress and often fails. When the toilet cistern is constantly leaking, it brings big losses due to excessive consumption of water. It is impractical to call the masters due to the failure of the device, since the repair for the most part consists in setting up the tank mechanism. But in order to understand how to fix a toilet, you first need to know how it works. Let's figure out how to independently repair a toilet cistern with a button.

Toilet device

The toilet bowl includes the following elements:

1. Toilet bowl connected to the sewer pipe with a sealed cuff.
2. Cistern with fittings for filling and draining with water.

The water supply hose is connected to the tank. It can be connected from the side or from below, depending on the design. The bowl and cistern are usually connected to each other using bolts and seals.

Hardware components:

• a pull rod trigger with a drain button;
• a shut-off device (inlet valve) connected to the float;
• rubber sealed gaskets.

How does a toilet with a button work?

A toilet cistern with a button is a water seal that is filled with a portion of water that is fed into the bowl when the shutter is opened. The flush is controlled by a button that must be pressed. At the same time, the valve opens, and water, under the influence of its own weight, flows down, washing the bowl. After emptying the tank, the inlet shut-off valve opens, the tank is filled with the next portion to a certain level, regulated by a float. The mechanism is accessible by opening the top lid of the tank.

Preparing for repair

Before you fix the toilet cistern, you need to open it. It can only be accessed from above if the cover is removed. In many modifications, it is attached with a ring around the button. This ring must be pressed and rotated counterclockwise. After prolonged use, the ring may not turn. Then a few drops of oil are applied to the attachment site. After the ring turns, unscrew it, and then release the button from the plastic clothespins and remove the cover.

DIY repair methods for the tank mechanism

The entire drainage valve mechanism is visible through the upper opening in the tank. It may have the following faults:

1. The tank is constantly leaking.
2. There is no water pressure at the inlet.
3. Uncontrolled drain mechanism.

The reasons for these malfunctions may be different, and the way in which the toilet cistern will be repaired depends on them.

• The plug (pear) does not fit snugly against the drain hole. To avoid this, you should purchase high quality plumbing. The repair can be checked by pressing the stem down with a little force. If there is no water flow, the plug can be slightly weighted with additional weight or the stem can be leveled. You also need to periodically clean the seal from rust and salts, due to which the tightness is broken, and the liquid constantly flows into the bowl.
• The regulator does not shut off the water supply. At the same time, the tank will never overflow, thanks to the presence of an overflow pipe. The serviceability of each element of the device is checked: float, inlet valve, fasteners, rod. The failed part is replaced or the float mount is simply tightened.
• Leakage from the tank into the room. It may have a crack or the seal of the gaskets is broken. Particular attention should be paid to the quality of the connection between the current tank and the bowl. It needs to be tightened, and if this does not help, the rubber gasket changes. Another cause of leakage may be wear of the cuff in the junction of the bowl drain with the sewer pipe. The seal is changed to a new one, after cleaning the connection from contamination and treating the surfaces with a sealant.
• Weak head through the inlet valve. This usually happens if it becomes clogged. This can be prevented by cleaning or installing a filter in front of it.

Replacing the intake valve

Before you repair the toilet, turn off the water supply tap. It connects to the pipeline from the riser. After that, the flexible hose is unscrewed from the intake mechanism. It can be easily removed if the fastener is loosened. Instead, a new or refurbished one is installed. Assembly is carried out upside-down. The plastic thread does not require a seal, and a fluoroplastic tape is wound onto the brass thread.

Replacing the drain valve

The main cause is wear of the O-ring under the valve. To replace it, you need to remove the hardware and install a new gasket. After that, the assembly is carried out in the reverse order.

The water release button should always be used carefully and pressed without sudden force.

Adjusting the water level in the tank

The water level can be easily adjusted with your own hands. For this, the float is installed in a certain position.

The optimal level is considered to be when the water supply to the container has stopped, and a few centimeters are left to its upper edge.

The adjustment method depends on the valve design. The easiest is to bend a metal bar. If the float moves along a horizontal plastic guide, it is fixed by means of fastening elements in a certain position. In a vertical arrangement, it is moved with an adjusting screw.

The overflow tube must not be forgotten when choosing the fill level. Its upper edge should be a couple of centimeters above the water level in the filled container. If it is located lower, water will constantly flow into the bowl through the overflow.

Tank troubleshooting

The tank may leak water due to a crack in it. The same goes for the bowl. In this case, the question of how to repair the cistern or bowl is not worth it: the entire toilet is usually replaced. A small crack in the tops of the stoneware can be repaired. So that it does not spread further, and does not increase the seepage of water, it is drilled at the ends and processed along the entire length with sandpaper. The work is done neatly.

The surface is degreased and the gap is filled with epoxy. After hardening, the seam is grinded.

Repair of the built-in tank (with installation)

It is more difficult to get to the mechanism of the tank installed behind the false wall. First of all, you should purchase a device with high reliability, which rarely requires repair. There should be inspection hatches in the wall through which you can get to the tank and replace the gaskets if the tightness is broken. Drain fittings cannot be repaired with their own hands due to the complexity of the design.

A coarse filter is installed in front of the hidden cistern, which traps solid particles, due to which, in most cases, leakage occurs.

The design and principle of operation of the cistern are quite simple, therefore, difficulties rarely arise with the repair of the device.

With some breakdowns of the cistern, water does not flow to the floor, there is no threat of flooding the neighbors from below. Such malfunctions seem insignificant, but this is exactly until the invoice for payment of water supply services arrives.

If a counter is installed, then any failure in the operation of the tank can become a problem! Therefore, the smartest solution is to eliminate it right away, without waiting for trouble.

Small difficulties sometimes occur only with improved modern models, in such cases it is worth contacting specialists. Basically, almost any toilet cistern repair can be done by hand.

The device of the toilet cistern is quite simple, and almost any person can cope with its repair, because no special skills are required for this

In many ways, cisterns of various designs are similar. The main difference lies in the installation method:

• Suspended cisterns. Structures of this type are attached to the toilet bowl at a low height and connected with a pipe.
• Toilet cistern compact. The compact cistern is mounted directly on the toilet bowl without connecting pipes.
• Built-in cistern. Constructions of this type are installed in the wall, they are used with hanging toilet bowls.

Regardless of the models, the designs of the cisterns are very similar. Modern devices are convenient because they can be repaired without disassembling modules and replacing them entirely

The water supply to the flush tank is carried out either from the bottom or from the side. The side feed device is most often found in domestic-made toilets. Its advantage is its relatively low price, which affects the cost of the entire toilet bowl as a whole.

Bottom water supply is often found in modern domestic and imported designs. These are usually slightly more expensive models.

For draining, mechanisms of various types can be provided: buttons, rods, levers, chains. The most common option is a button.

It can be located at the top of the structure, and in models with a hidden cistern - on the wall. To drain the water, just press it.

Models with a push-button mechanism can only be disassembled after dismantling the push-button. How to remove the lid from a tank of this design is shown in detail in the video:

Buttons in which the water is completely drained after a short single press are called automatic.

Those in which the water is drained only while the button is pressed are mechanical. The former are more convenient to use, and the latter allow you to save water when flushing the toilet.

There are one- and two-mode push-button drain mechanisms. In models with two buttons, it is possible to drain only half the volume of the tank.

However, there are designs with one button, which in the same way can drain either the full volume of water or half. If the push-button mechanism is equipped with a special auger that makes the water rotate when flushing, then the toilet bowl is washed more efficiently.

Mechanisms with two buttons cost a little more, but the overpayment pays off, because draining in economy mode can reduce water consumption by 20 cubic meters. in year

Adjusting the amount of water drawn

If desired, you can easily adjust the amount of water drawn into the tank. This is necessary if the toilet is poorly flushed or if there is too much water and there is a need to reduce its volume.

To change the filling volume, you need to remove the tank lid and perform simple steps. But before proceeding with the adjustment, you first need to deal with the tank device.

The video below will help you with this:

Option # 1 - For Side Feeding Systems

Such mechanisms are equipped with a lever made of thick metal wire. It connects the valve and float. To raise or lower the float, bend the wire arm slightly.

After that, you should make sure that the right amount of water is collected in the tank. If not, bend the wire a little more. Raising the lever, you can increase the volume of water, lowering it - decrease it.

This option is only suitable for those tanks in which metal is used in the float system.

Many modern models use plastic instead of metal parts. Such levers cannot be bent, but it is possible to move the float itself along their axis using the fastening screw provided by the design.

The float can be secured with a thread or a latch. If a latch is used in the design, then it is squeezed out. To increase the volume of water in the tank, the float is moved closer to the valve body.

As a result, the length of the lever is reduced. If it is necessary to lower the water level, the float is moved further from the body.

This is the simplest design of a side-fed cistern. Brass wire is used as a lever. By slightly changing the angle of its inclination, you can reduce the amount of water in the tank. If a meter is installed in the house, this is a great way to save on utility bills.

Option # 2 - in tanks with a bottom inlet

If the design is with a bottom feed water, it can be adjusted even more easily than a side feed system. The mechanism has a special water level limiter connecting the valve lever and the float. It can be lengthened or shortened.

The float on the stop is secured with a thread. To adjust the water level in the tank, you need to change its height using a plastic nut.

The main advantage of bottom feed designs is ease of installation and maintenance. When repairing or replacing, problems are extremely rare.

How do I diagnose problems?

If the cistern is faulty, it quickly becomes obvious: water either flows into the toilet bowl, or begins to drip onto the floor. Sometimes it happens that the container is not filled.

No matter how ultramodern and complex the design of the tank is, breakdowns appear the same in all models.

External leaks are not always immediately visible. It happens that water drips out for weeks, but its amount is so small that damp areas are not conspicuous. Then the leak can be determined by the appearance of red spots and rust streaks.

If they are, it is worth disassembling the tank and establishing the cause of the breakdown.

If there is no coarse filter, particles of dirt and rust constantly enter the tank. They accumulate in the container and can damage the internal mechanisms of the structure and cause breakdown.

Normally, the tank is filled to a predetermined level, and the rubber bulb is pressed against the drain hole, reliably closes it and is held in this position by water pressure. When the trigger is pressed, this bulb rises and opens the drain hole.

The rubber bulb must be constantly filled with air. To prevent water from getting into it, a special guide tube is provided in the design. It ensures the correct position of the bulb in the saddle.

If the integrity of the pear or tube itself is violated, the mechanism fails.

This is how the rubber bulb of the tank should look if it is in working order. It should remain flexible and fit well to the saddle.

The first thing to do after disassembling the tank is to inspect the pear. If it has lost its elasticity, cracked, then it is in it that the cause of the leak lies. Worn rubber cannot cover the drain hole well, water flows into cracks and gaps.

Rubber products of this type cannot be repaired, so the bulb just needs to be replaced.

If everything is in order with it, you need to make sure that no dirt and rust particles get under the rubber, which can also interfere with the normal operation of the pear.

There are cases when the problem of a leak can be solved by simply cleaning the tank. If it turns out that dirt has accumulated under the rubber bulb, it can be removed with a regular sponge. This is often enough to restore normal operation. It also makes sense for prophylaxis to wipe the walls of the container with a rag and remove plaque.

If the pear is in order, then you should continue to inspect the toilet cistern in search of the cause of the leak.

The tank is not filled if:

• the supply hose is faulty;
• the inlet valve of the float mechanism is worn out.

Water can leak out if:

• the gasket between the cistern and the toilet is worn out;
• there is a leak at the installation site of the connecting screws.

Internal leaks appear when:

• overflow pipe not adjusted;
• defective valve;
• the float is out of order.

All of these components should be carefully checked, repaired, adjusted or damaged parts replaced. How to disassemble the tank and find these elements is shown in the video:

Problem # 1: water does not flow into the tank

How can you fix a toilet cistern if water has stopped flowing into it? This is not difficult. First of all, check the supply hose. It is disconnected from the tank and one end is lowered into a container.

If the water does not flow, you can simply buy and install a new hose.

Most often, the problem lies in the clogging of the narrow part of the valve. For repairs, it is enough to empty the tank, cut off the water and unscrew the assembly consisting of a valve, a lever and a float.

When the parts are removed, a hole will open through which the container is filled. It is very often clogged. You can clean it with a regular needle or wire.

To carry out a complete cleaning, you need to remove the valve from the inlet and rinse the remaining dirt with water.

Sometimes the cause of breakage is a tiny piece of scale trapped in the hose, or dirt. You can try rinsing or cleaning it.

Problem # 2: external leaks

If an external leak appears, you can repair the toilet with your own hands and not call the master. Usually, problems arise due to a loose gasket between the toilet bowl and the cistern, or if the seals under the screws are worn out.

In the first case, it is enough to remove the tank, check the gasket and, if it has become too rigid or cracked, replace it.

It happens that the reason for such a leak is trivial - the gasket is incorrectly installed. Then it is enough just to put it in its place, or better - to change it.

If a leak appears in the place of the connecting screws, then they need to be unscrewed and the rubber seals must be changed. To do this, it is not even necessary to remove the tank itself.

When choosing new seals, it is better to give preference to conical rather than flat. They adhere much more closely to surfaces.

When tightening the screws after replacing the seals, it is important to achieve an even distribution of forces in order to avoid distortions, otherwise a new leak may appear. To do this, tighten the screws little by little and in turn.

Problem # 3: repairing internal leaks

How to fix the cistern if water flows into the toilet bowl? First, it is worth checking the correct setting of the overflow tube. You need to raise it a little and see if water pours into the tube.

If so, the float valve needs to be repaired. If not, you need to adjust the lever.

Valve problems can be caused by debris. You just need to remove it from under the rubber band.

If the rubber is worn out, you can simply turn it over with the other side, but it is better to change it right away. If the valve is broken, you will have to replace it with a new one.

We offer video instructions for replacing the drain tank fittings:

Problem # 4: tank noise when filling

Noise when filling the tank with water cannot be called a breakdown, because all mechanisms are in good order. However, loud sounds can be very annoying and interfere with proper rest.

Most often, the tank is loudly recruited immediately after the water is drained, then the noise becomes less.

The solution to the problem is very simple. To do this, a small piece of rubber or plastic tube is put on the branch pipe of the locking mechanism.

The length should be such that the tube reaches the bottom of the container. After that, the tank will become much less noisy.

In addition to such a device, there are other ways to get rid of the noise during the operation of the tank. The cardinal solution is to replace a conventional float valve with a stabilizing one with a special chamber. In this case, it will be possible to forget about the noise forever and relax in comfort.

Repairing a toilet cistern is a simple procedure. To fix all the faults with your own hands, it is enough to have the time, desire and the simplest tools.

However, sometimes difficulties arise with the diagnosis of breakdowns or the repair itself. In this case, it is better not to experiment and call a plumber.