How to install the socket block in the wall - instructions from A to Z. How to connect the socket block to the network Block of 4 sockets for indoor installation

The socket block is installed in cases where you need to connect a whole group of electrical appliances. In one block there can be from 2 to 4 electrical outlets.

Design and mounting locations of socket blocks

The block device differs from a standard socket only in the number of seats. The block includes a plastic case and internal elements, which include terminals with terminals and contacts. The springs for the forks are attached to the latter.

Most modern blocks are equipped with ground contacts. These contacts ensure the safety of the system, allow you to reduce the voltage of consumers connected to the unit.

There are 2 types of blocks:

Devices for organizing hidden electrical wiring. Mounted deep into the wall using a module in the form of glasses for socket boxes.
Devices for creating open wiring. Such blocks are installed on the wall. For this, a plate socket is used.

In addition to the above types of socket blocks, there are also retractable devices that are designed to be installed in furniture (the socket block can be mounted in a rack, table, cabinet, etc.) and are used as needed. Fundamentally, these devices do not differ from outdoor and indoor units.

Socket blocks are often mounted in kitchens. Such devices are usually located at a height of 10 - 15 centimeters from the level of furniture and at a height of 30 - 60 centimeters from the floor. Such socket blocks are convenient when it comes to the use of relatively low-power consumers (refrigerator, small household appliances, extractor hood). When organizing power supply in living rooms, sockets are installed near large consumers: behind the TV, near the desktop.

Groups of outlets with three points are often found in bathrooms. However, such units must be equipped with moisture-resistant housings. The distance from the outlet to the water source should not be less than 60 centimeters.

Connection methods

If a socket block of one group is connected, the loop method is used. In this case, we are talking about connecting all members of the group to a common power supply line. The stub circuit is designed for loads not exceeding 16A.

A popular connection method is combined, when a parallel circuit is used. Especially often this method is used in European countries. In the post-Soviet countries, the combined connection is most often used to supply electricity through separate lines to large energy consumers.

In a parallel connection from the junction box, a pair of cables is laid:

The first cable runs like a loop, supplying power to four of the five outlets in the five-bed unit.
The second cable is routed to the fifth point of the outlet group. This point is used to power powerful equipment.

The advantage of a combined connection is in the distribution of risks: each point is independent of the work of other members of the chain located nearby. The combined scheme has only one minus, which is the cost of acquiring a cable and the increased labor costs of electrical work.

Both the stub method and the combined method can be used to create an open or closed system. The loop technique is associated with making a channel in the wall, along which lines and slots for connectors will pass. The combined method involves laying a PE conductor along the wall.

The use of plastic cable channels increases the safety of the system. In addition, open wiring in the cable channel looks more aesthetically pleasing. Most of the channels have partitions into which the line fits. Conductor monitoring can be carried out without problems, since the channel is equipped with removable covers.

Installation instructions

The specific method of carrying out installation work depends on the material of the structures. The walls can be made of concrete, brick, wood or plasterboard. In some cases, wall chasing will be required, in others, you can opt for open wiring.

Preparation

Preparatory work begins with a power outage at the site where electrical work will be carried out. When it comes to old houses in which there is no automation, it is enough to unscrew the plugs to turn off the electricity.

To perform the work, you will need the following materials and devices:

socket block;
decorative strip;
wires for jumpers and organization of electrical wiring;
socket boxes for connection in blocks;
gypsum or alabaster mortar.

When choosing a block, they proceed from the quality of the device, the possibility of a dedicated connection of PE conductors.

To install the socket block, you need the following tools:

perforator with a crown for drilling (70 millimeters);
building level;
a set of tools for electrical installation;
tape measure, ruler, marker;
solution container;
putty knife.

The crown for the perforator is selected taking into account the material with which you need to work. For different types of materials, nozzles of various characteristics and prices are produced.

Wall marking

The correctness of the markup determines the comfort of carrying out all further work. Before starting, it is recommended to check if there are any communications inside the wall. When it comes to drywall, it is extremely important not to damage the profile holding this material.

A ruler, a building level and a marker are tools that are used to mark the surface. It is necessary to take into account how many points will be in the group. Intersecting lines mark the centers of the holes to be made.

Small indentations are made in the center of future holes. Attention should be paid to the accuracy of drilling: the crown should not move to the side during the drilling process.

Advice! When organizing the block, it is not easy to achieve a horizontal position of the holes. It is recommended to use a crown with a slightly larger diameter - 80 millimeters.

It is advisable to prepare a drawing in advance. This will help to better navigate when performing work, in particular, it will help to avoid the wrong choice of places for creating holes.

Chasing and creating seats

Drilling seats along crossed lines should be started at low speeds. It is necessary to monitor the correct position of the drill.

In order for the work to be done accurately, the hole is first marked with a drill with a small diameter, then the main crown is used, with which the recess is made in full.

Excess wall material inevitably remains in the holes. They need to be removed, for which a perforated chisel is well suited. Holes and channels are cleaned of fragments of material and dust using a paint brush or napkins. Then, connecting channels are made between the holes for the protrusions of the socket boxes.

For hidden wiring, grooves are made. If you need a separate line to one of the outlet block points, a special channel is created for it.

Note! The PE conductor will be better protected if the cable is placed in a corrugated sleeve.

If there is a need, strobes can also be made using the old method, using a hammer and a chisel. However, this option is too labor-intensive and will take not only strength, but also time. It is especially difficult to lay channels in this way in masonry. Bricks need to be ditched only in a mechanized way.

Features of installing socket blocks in drywall

Drywall is much easier to work with. Seats in this material are made using a special nozzle for drywall sheets. Cutting round strobes in drywall is not a big deal.

It is only necessary not to be too zealous - not to put pressure on the instrument, so as not to violate the fragile foundation. Mounting boxes for drywall are equipped with special tabs located on the back of the material and tightening the glass into a niche.

The distance between the wall and the drywall sheet must be sufficient to fit the socket into the recess. If the depth is too shallow, the wall needs to be deepened.

Features of fixing socket boxes

In brickwork, socket boxes are fixed with alabaster or gypsum mortar. The ratio of water to the mixture is 1 to 4.

Note! Creamy solutions set quickly - within a few minutes.

The powder is diluted in small portions and immediately laid in a niche. The same solution is used to treat adjacent side faces and the bottom of the glasses. When this work is done, the block is sent into the hole.

The position of the recessed glasses is checked by the building level. It is important to avoid protrusions beyond the plane of the wall. If the sockets are installed correctly, the edges are coated with a solution in order to level the surface as much as possible. The remaining composition covers the wire going to the outlet.

The glasses have special clamping feet that serve to pull the glass into the hole.

The socket boxes recessed into the wall should not go beyond the plane. If the niche is not deep enough, it needs to be deepened. However, if the surface is to be tiled or plastered, the socket should protrude slightly above the surface - usually a protrusion of 5–7 millimeters is left.

Electrical connection features

When the solution has completely hardened, proceed to connect the indoor outlet block. If the socket is connected in a daisy-chain type, the wires go from the junction box to the first socket.

The ends of the cable are cleaned from the braid with a sharp knife. This work must be done very carefully. A side cutter will be a good help for solving the problem. When stripping, it is advisable to leave a little cable in reserve so that you can create another connection if such a need arises. So that the cable does not interfere, it can be rolled up in the form of a spiral and put inside the socket.

To create bows, fragments of multi-colored wires are prepared. In this case, the cross section of the links must be the same as the cross section of the conductors of the power supply line. The conductors should not be excessively long, as in this case they will interfere with the normal installation of the socket in the mounting box. The cut wires are stripped from the insulating layer by about 1 centimeter.

Wires are threaded through the socket adapters. Prior to this, it is necessary to ensure the normal patency of the adapters, for which they are cleaned of the remnants of gypsum or alabaster mortar. Installation of the socket block will be easier if the ends of the conductors are bent towards the terminals.

Remove the protective cover from the block. After that, the clamping screws are allowed to 5 - 7 millimeters. The cleaned end of the phase of the supply cable is directed to the first outlet. Note the location of the terminals. Further, the PE conductor and the zeros of the supply cable lead to the second outlet. In the same way as described above, connect all other outlets. The sockets should not be twisted too tightly.

Grinding sockets implies strict adherence to the principle of polarity of contacts. A phase wire departs from the terminal with a phase, and zero from zero.

The protective conductor is connected in strict accordance with the requirements of the Electrical Installation Rules, which indicate the need to create exclusively non-separable connections of this type. This condition cannot be neglected, since in this case the risk of accidents will increase by an order of magnitude.

For example, if grounding disappears at the main power point of the power outlet block during installation, subsequent participants in the chain will lose their protective zero. In the future, if mains voltage gets on the housing (in the event of a malfunction of the equipment), the voltage will be transmitted to all other housings of electrical appliances connected to the network.

Socket boxes with wires connected to the terminals are installed in holes in the walls. The design is fixed with side clamps. Next, the reliability of the installation of all devices is tested. Use the building level and, if necessary, make adjustments. Electrical tape is applied to bare sections of electrical wiring or treated with a heat-shrinkable sponge.

When this work is completed, it remains only to finally tighten the screws, fix the case in the socket and install the decorative cover.

Electrical appliances are taking up more and more space in the home. Smartphones, tablets, computers and TVs are in almost every home. To use all these devices, single or dual power points are not enough. As a rule, with modern wiring, a socket block consisting of several connectors is connected.

What is a socket assembly

This is a design consisting of several connection points, often with different purposes. For example, a socket block may consist of a pair of electrical (220 V), one television and one computer network or USB connector, through which you can connect to the Internet, as well as to connect to other computing facilities. The composition of the assembly may also contain telephone sockets, which are quite common in modern offices. Installation of a block consisting of several socket devices is carried out in one of 3 ways:

by embedding in the wall;
external way;
using portable modules - such as multi-socket extension cords or retractable structures.

Designs can be supplemented with various kinds of devices: fuses, indicators, plug ejectors, automatic devices.

How is interior installation done?

With this type of installation, the installation of the socket block is carried out directly inside a brick, reinforced concrete or block wall. For this, special boxes are used - socket boxes, to which electrical, television and other cables are connected. In most cases, each power point has its own socket. This is mandatory for plug-in devices with different purposes.

If, for example, an assembly has two electrical connectors, one box can be used for them. There are combinations of power outlets with light switches. It is advisable to implement such a solution where rooms have limited space - for example, in bathrooms.

Surface mounting and its features

This installation option is preferred when the wiring is outside the walls and enclosed inside the ducts. In this case, the installation of a block of socket devices has its own characteristics.

Socket boxes are not required here. External sockets are mounted directly on the wall surface.
If the block has a connector for connecting a television receiver or a computer network, then it will not work to combine power sockets with them in a single assembly. Such designs will have to be supplemented with single television or computer connectors.
With surface mounting, it is much easier to replace the socket block than with an internal one. The wiring does not have to be brought inside the new socket.

Retractable structures

Such retractable devices are usually built into furniture and are often used in the kitchen. When power is not required, they hide in the countertop and do not interfere with cooking. If you need to connect a food processor, a TV device or some other gadget, this design is put forward by pressing a button or in another way.

The convenience of such solutions lies in the fact that they have an aesthetic appearance, can be installed in a limited space and do not require the destruction of walls by the formation of holes. In addition to retractable, there are also rotary designs.

What is the socket block made of?

The block of electrical power sockets built into the wall consists of the following parts:

front panels;
one common frame for the entire structure;
housings with grounding, phase and neutral contacts;
socket boxes - one or more.

As a rule, such structures are installed at a height of 300 mm from the floor - this is the most practical distance. You can do it higher - for example, 90 cm from the floor, as was done in Soviet times. This distance is convenient for switches. At least there are no hard and fast rules in this regard.

Each room must have its own machine. An exception may be the bathroom and kitchen, where several machines are sometimes used. If there are small children in the apartment, it is necessary to provide additional security measures - to provide devices with protective shutters.

For installation of electrical wiring, a 2 or 3-core wire with a cross section of 2.5 mm is used. It is advisable to use copper as it has a much better electrical conductivity than aluminum, although such wires are more expensive.

Installation details

How to install a socket block indoors? The first thing you need to decide is the place of installation of the modular design. It should be located as close as possible to the electrical devices used, so that it is convenient to connect them. For example, in the kitchen, the optimal place for the socket block is above the countertop, so that it is convenient to turn on the food processor, mixer, electric meat grinder and other household appliances. The number of power points depends on how many devices will be used at the same time, they are also determined with the presence of a TV connector.

If the socket group is installed in the bathroom, it should be remembered that its distance from the water must be at least 60 cm. In addition, the housings of the electrical sockets must be protected from moisture to prevent short circuits.

When you have decided on the place, you need to prepare a perforator with which the walls will be ditched. It depends on the material of the walls - brick, concrete, drywall - which nozzle will need to be used. Tools such as a level, tape measure, and marker will also come in handy. Next, the walls are marked, for which a marker is used. The location of the sockets is applied. The distance between their centers must be exactly 72 mm, otherwise the frame may not fit on the front panels. If the devices will be installed not as a block, but as a set of separate connectors, then this condition is not necessary.

Before connecting the socket block, the walls are ditched for electrical wiring. In order for it to pass strictly horizontally or vertically, a building level is used. In order to make recesses in brick or concrete walls, you first need to cut through the sockets with a crown. The holes are then knocked out using a chisel and hammer. Installing a socket block in drywall is even easier.

When the holes are ready, rosette glasses are inserted into them and fixed there with a gypsum solution. Glasses are attached to drywall using special paws located on the sides.

Electrical connection

When the gypsum mortar dries and the installation of the socket block is completed, you can proceed to the final stage. How to connect the socket block to the electrical network? There are two methods for this - loop and combined (parallel).

In a daisy chain, connectors are connected in series from one incoming cable. This option is convenient and most common. It is implemented if powerful appliances are not connected to the sockets - for example, a washing machine, boiler, oven and others. With this connection, less cable is consumed. All points are connected in series with jumpers from the cores, which are taken from the same cable that is laid.

It should be noted that the current Electrical Installation Rules (PUE) prohibit breaking the neutral and ground wires. Unfortunately, they don’t pay much attention to this and install sockets everywhere in this way.

In the event that it is supposed to connect something powerful, you can use the combined method. From the shield with the machine, two wires are laid in the corrugation. One is connected to a powerful connector, the other is used to connect the remaining points in series.

Each of the laid cables must pass through itself up to 16 Amps of current without strong heating. If the socket block includes a low-current television or computer cable, a separate strobe is made under it, it is also supplied in its own corrugation.

Another type of connection is practiced - a star or a branch. This is done when some powerful consuming device can be connected to each of the points. A separate cable goes to each connector from the shield. If there is grounding, you will have to pull 3 wires. For a three-phase network of modern TN-C-S and TN-S standards, 5 cores will need to be laid. This method is the most costly in terms of the amount of cable used and in terms of labor, because each cable must be separately ditched.

All cables are laid with a small margin, so that in the future, when replacing sockets, you can easily reconnect them. After the cables are connected to the internal contacts, the sockets are fixed inside the sockets, the front panels are screwed on and the frame is put on.

For convenient placement of household appliances and lighting fixtures, an outlet block is often used. It has 2 to 5 power points. Installing the kit is not difficult if the master has the skills. Even a beginner can cope with the work.

The design of the socket block

Socket block with 5 points

A complete kit for mounting power points has the following design:

a set of sockets;
the polymer panel itself with 2-4 sockets located on it.

The dimensions of one are 72x72 mm. Respectively:

two points in a row - 142 mm;
three - 212 mm;
four - 284 mm.

Knowing these parameters is necessary in order to correctly determine the installation point of the socket block (distance from a wall or window). Most often it is placed in such places:

Kitchen. As a rule, power points are installed above the work surface at least 40 cm from the sink.
Living room. So that the sockets are not visible, they can be removed behind the cabinet with the TV or under the bar counter.
Bathroom. Here the whole structure can be placed behind the built-in wardrobe. Thus, the power points will be hidden from the eyes and moisture by the doors of the furniture.

It is advisable to raise sockets from the floor to a level of 60 cm and above.

Connection methods

Combined way to connect sockets

There are two ways to connect power points to the power cable:

daisy chain. It implies powering each outlet from one line. The advantage of this method is the minimal complexity of the process. Minus - the failure of all power points, subject to the slightest damage to the cable at least in one of them. The maximum load for a daisy-chained unit is 16 A.
Combined. A newer way to connect multiple sockets at the same time. It implies the laying of two cables at once from the junction box. The first type of loop feeds three of the four outlets. The second is intended for 4 power points and can serve more powerful equipment (stove). The main advantage of such a connection is that the rest of the sockets of the block are insured against failure in case of problems with “strong” equipment and power points for it. Of the minuses of the master, the laboriousness of the process and the double consumption of the electric cable are distinguished.

Both types of connection can be laid in a closed (in gates) and open (in PE channels) way. The latter option is additionally protected from mechanical impact by cable channels or a plinth with internal grooves.

Preparing for installation

Preparing tools for mounting sockets

In order for each block socket to be installed correctly, you need to prepare the following materials:

panel with the required number of power points;
decorative bar;
wiring cable with the required footage - measured from the junction box along all vertical and horizontal strobes to the point where the structure is located;
jumper wire;
alabaster or gypsum (you can putty).

From the tools you need to prepare:

building level or ruler;
pencil;
perforator with a crown for concrete and drywall with a diameter of 70 mm;
chisel, hammer;
electrical installation tools;
putty knife;
container for mixing putty (gypsum, alabaster).

Noisy work is desirable to perform on a weekday from 10:00 to 17:00, when most of the neighbors are away from home.

Do-it-yourself installation of the socket block

All actions for installing a group of power points are performed in strict sequence.

Wall marking

Performed using a building level or a ruler with a marker. Future channels should be located only vertically or only horizontally. It is forbidden to make oblique strobes for cable laying. It is important to accurately mark the places for the installation of socket boxes. There must be strictly 72 cm between their central parts. Otherwise, the boxes will not fit into place.

Shtroblenie

Shtrobleniye of walls under sockets

The preparation of channels for laying the cable can be done with a perforator, grinder, chisel with a hammer. Each master selects a method for himself, depending on the availability of one or another tool.

The principle of forming a strobe looks like this:

Along the marking line, the grinder makes a cut on both sides. If the master works with a puncher, holes are made along the line in steps of 1.5-2 centimeters.
With the help of a hammer and chisel, excess concrete is knocked out of the wall, forming channels for laying the wiring.
Technical recesses for the installation of socket boxes are made with a puncher with a crown. Concrete is also cut here, and then the excess is knocked out with a chisel and hammer. If necessary, select the depth of the excavation. The socket box is periodically inserted into the concrete, checking how far its edges protrude above the plane of the wall. The norm is considered to be some deepening of the elements inside. Later, the excess free space will be filled with building mixture.

When carrying out dirty work, it is advisable to use a respirator to protect the respiratory tract from construction dust. The use of safety glasses is also important.

Installation of socket boxes

Built-in sockets must be flush with the wall

To install a set of socket boxes, it is advisable to buy special plastic cups for them. Elements are fixed in nests with alabaster or gypsum mortar. It is prepared from bulk material, mixed with water in a ratio of 4:1. The consistency should look like thick sour cream.

The finished solution is laid in the nest of a concrete wall and, having released wires into the technical gaps of the glasses, they are mounted in the wall. It is important to monitor the evenness of the installation of glasses using a level. It is unacceptable if they protrude above the plane of the wall. With the help of the remnants of the building mixture, the wall around the future block is leveled as much as possible.

The solution sets in about 2-4 hours. To be sure, you can give him a day to dry.

Features of installing socket blocks in drywall

Installation of sockets in drywall requires accuracy

If the overhead socket box needs to be built into a drywall wall, less labor can be applied here. The socket block has special paws that you just need to press against the GCR box on the sides. In turn, the outer ledge-rim of the glass simply will not allow it to fall inward. If in the future it is planned to clad the wall with tiles, it is necessary that the element protrude above the plane of the wall by the thickness of the facing material.

At the time of the formation of a nest for glasses, it is advisable not to press hard on the wall so as not to break it. Drywall is a relatively fragile material.

If there is not enough space between the wall and the drywall slab, you will have to carefully deepen the concrete or brickwork at the location of the block.

Electrical connection

Before starting electrical work - check the voltage on the wires in the socket using the indicator

After the solution dries, proceed to connect the cable to the sockets. With the loop method, they act like this:

1. The cable mounted from the junction box is led into the first socket. Its braid must first be cleaned with a knife or side cutter by 10-15 cm in order to free the internal wires. It is advisable to leave a small margin for possible repairs in the future.
2. Use pre-prepared multi-colored jumper wires. Their cross section must be the same as that of the supply cable. You don't need to make the jumpers very long. They will prevent the block from "sit down" tightly in the nests. On the jumpers, you need to remove the braid by 1 cm.
3. Pass all the wires through the technical connectors-holes in the sockets.
4. The upper protective cover is removed from the typesetting block and the clamping screws are unscrewed by 5-6 mm. The first conductor is connected to 1 socket, taking into account the position of the terminals. Already from it, with the help of contacts, the PE conductor and all zero cables are diverted to the rest of the sockets.
5. All nests with arranged wiring are carefully attracted with fixing screws without effort. The master must remember that the power line connections must remain non-separable.
6. All bare sections of wires are wrapped with insulating tape.
7. It remains to insert the socket with the wires connected into the glasses and fix it using the side clamps.
8. The level controls the evenness of the placement of the block.

Lastly, mount the upper part of the kit.

At the time of daisy chaining, it is important to keep track of the polarity of the contacts. The same cable is taken from the zero terminal. From the phase conductor - phase.

A fully assembled and installed wall unit should “sit” firmly, resist attempts to move it by hand.

Most often, a socket block of 2, 3, 4 "electric points" is installed in the kitchen and in the hall behind the TV. A horizontal or vertical panel of euro sockets is very convenient, because. allows you to connect an interacting group of household appliances in one place, for example: a TV, an audio system and a DVD player. Next, we will tell you how to properly install and connect the socket block in the house with your own hands!

What can be the nuance

To date, the walls in the house can be concrete, wood, brick or plasterboard. Because of this, the installation technology may have its own characteristics - either you will ditch the concrete in a panel house, or simply install an overhead socket block (outer) for open wiring on the surface. Next, we will briefly talk about each of the installation options, but you can still learn more about that in the corresponding article.

Another nuance is that now we are only considering the technology of installing and connecting the socket block. To date, there is still a combined option: power socket + switch, but we will talk about the installation of such a combination separately.

Installation instructions

To make it clear to you how to properly install and connect the socket block with your own hands, then we will provide step-by-step instructions from A to Z with photo examples and visual video tutorials.

Step 1 - Preparatory work

First you need to decide where you want to put the outlet group in the room. If this is a kitchen, then it is better to place the socket block above the countertop so that when connecting a multicooker, microwave oven and other kitchen appliances, the length of the cord is enough. In the living room or hall, it is best to install the product behind the TV so that the large screen can hide all the cords. If you decide to put a block of two or three sockets in the bathroom, consider an important rule - the distance from the water must be at least 0.6 meters, and at the same time, the cases of electrical outlets must be waterproof. You can get more advice about this moment in the article -.

By the way, for the kitchen there is an original version of the outlet block - retractable. The mortise housing in this case is hidden in the countertop and opens with a slight pressure. It is very convenient and also safe, so if you wish, we recommend installing just such a model of products.

Also at this stage you must prepare a tool for and socket boxes. If the wall is concrete or brick, use a puncher with a special crown. For drywall also has its own nozzle for chasing. In addition, prepare the building level, marker and tape measure.

Step 2 - Marking the Walls

In fact, a very important stage, on which the correctness of further installation and connection will depend. You need to mark the surfaces for the sockets to be installed based on how many electrical sockets will be in the unit. The first and very important rule is that the distance between the centers of the sockets must be strictly 72 mm. If you make a mistake, when installing the decorative cover, it may not fall into place. In addition, make sure that all round strobes are placed in the same horizontal or vertical plane. To do this, we recommend using the building level.

When the walls are marked, you can proceed to chasing.

Step 3 - Making the strobe

At this stage, you must make seats for recessed sockets. There is nothing complicated here, the main thing is to have a puncher with a suitable nozzle at hand. If you decide to install the socket block in a concrete or brick wall, first punch the circles with a crown, and then knock out the entire core with a chisel and hammer. The instructions for installing a socket block in concrete are discussed in great detail in the video example below.

How to make a brick wall for the installation of a socket panel

If the walls in your apartment are sewn up with plasterboard sheets, it’s even easier here - using a perforator and a drywall crown, cut out round strobes according to the markings.

Installation of glasses in a plasterboard partition

Step 4 - Mounting the sockets

The next thing you need to do is install the socket block. To date, there are special plastic glasses that can be interconnected. Connecting the sockets is not difficult even for a novice electrician.

In brick and concrete walls, you need to smear the glasses yourself with gypsum mortar. In drywall, everything is simpler - the sockets are pressed against the sheet with special paws on the sides. Again, you can see the essence of installing socket boxes in the article that we referred to at the beginning.

Step 5 - Electrical connection

When the solution hardens (this applies to walls made of concrete and brick), you can proceed to connecting the indoor socket block to the 220V network with your own hands. It is allowed to connect several euro sockets with a loop from one input cable, if you do not connect very powerful household appliances, for example, an electric stove.

So, to begin with, turn off the power on the apartment panel, and then insert the lead wires from the junction box into the first socket: phase, zero and ground. After that, make jumpers to connect the remaining outlets in the block. Connecting a block of 3 or 4 sockets must be done according to this scheme: